Dwaeji gukbap, pork soup with rice, is the dish mentioned more than any other in local Busan food blogs. It was an affordable, filling meal during and after the Korean War and remains a daily food for locals, eaten at breakfast, after drinking, or any time in between.
What you get
A milky broth made from long-simmered pork bones, with sliced boiled pork (and sometimes offal or sausage) and rice. The table has salted shrimp (saeu-jeot), chopped chives (buchu), sliced chili, kimchi and radish kimchi (kkakdugi). Nothing is added for you, which is the point: you season it yourself.
How to eat it like a local
- Taste first. Then add a spoon of salted shrimp instead of salt, which gives the soup its depth.
- Add chives and chili a little at a time.
- Put some kimchi or radish kimchi into the bowl, or eat it on the side.
- Many people mix the rice into the soup and eat it all together. If you prefer the rice separate, ask for "ttaro gukbap".
Words to order with
- Dwaeji gukbap: the standard bowl.
- Sutgogi (lean meat only) or seokkeo (mixed meat and offal): say which you want.
- Naejang gukbap: with offal. Sundae gukbap: with blood sausage. Both are acquired tastes.
- Mal-geun gukbap: a clear-broth version offered by some shops.
Shops that Busan bloggers keep naming
Local posts often mention Yeongjin Pork Soup, Subyeon Choego Pork Soup, Ssangdungi Pork Soup, Sinchang Gukbap and Hyeongje Pork Soup, among others. Shops open, close and move often, so use Naver Map or Kakao Map to confirm hours before you go. A trustworthy sign is a queue of local office workers at breakfast time.
Good to know
- Solo diners are welcome. Most shops serve quickly, and bowls are priced individually.
- The soup contains pork and the side dish includes salted shrimp. It is not suitable for halal or vegetarian diets, or for shellfish allergies. If this applies to you, ask the staff before ordering.
- Budget about the price of a normal Korean lunch and check the menu board, as prices change.
- Pair it with a stroll to Gukje Market or Nampo-dong, or follow it with a visit to the Haeundae coast.